Wish List: The Rolex Submariner

If you were going to purchase one watch, and have that be your only watch for the rest of your life, it had better be a Rolex Submariner. Yes, I know we all know about the Submariner, and yes, I know it's been talked about ad nauseum, but that's partly the reason why I'm talking about it today. You see, there are four categories of watches, and this is the only watch I can think of that comfortably sits in all of them. Those categories are dress watches, sporting watches, everyday watches, and investment watches.

Thanks to James Bond, the Submariner can be counted as an acceptable dress watch, it's simple black and silver design is unobtrusive and simple enough to look sleek (especially when compared to today's gaudy monstrosities). You could wear it to a board meeting, a black tie gala, and anything in between. It is just as at home with a tuxedo shaking hands with CEOs and foreign dignitaries as it is underwater fighting off evil henchmen.

Which brings me to it's original heritage as a sporting watch. It was created to be the professional diver's watch, built to withstand the pressures and hazards of things like clearance diving (when you dismantle underwater explosives, no joke), submarine welding, recovery diving, etc. There's a reason is the standard issue watch to those whose expertise is life threatening underwater activities. With a heritage like that, I'm pretty sure it can handle hunting, hiking, camping, fishing, swimming, sky diving and anything else you can throw at it. It's caliber has been refined over the years to be even more shock resistant and durable under almost any conditions.

Because of it's existence in the two former categories, it has become the ultimate formidable everyday watch. It will obviously have no problem on the beach, in the rain or snow and looks stylish with every single outfit you can imagine. Which is also probably why it is the most copied watch design in the history of watches. It's a fantastic value for those reasons alone, even if you don't scuba dive or venture into the wilderness. It is also made of proprietary 904L steel which is tougher than your average stainless steel and more resistant to nicks and scratches.

Like any high end timepiece, if you take care of it and aren't reckless when wearing it, it will undoubtedly over time increase in value. Like a Ferrari, when you buy it new, there are plenty of them running about, however over time many are crashed or neglected by shoddy owners, eventually making the ones in excellent condition worth an incredible amount of money. Indeed old Rolex Submariners in good condition can easily be worth anywhere from two to four times the amount of a new one. This makes it a great investment watch over time.

This has always been my ideal watch, and probably always will be.  The most idyllic and collectible submariners are the rare 5513 milsub, the 1680 red sub, and the super rare 6358 James Bond sub.  And as a commenter below pointed out, you should definitely buy them used unless you have to buy it new from the store. If you buy one used, make sure it has full documentation and has been inspected and does not need a servicing, alhtough this should all be standard from any reputable seller. Eventually, I will undoubtedly buy one, but until then, it remains relegated to the Wish List.

Fall/Winter Inspiration: The Heather Gray Crewneck

Clockwise from top left: Polo Oxford, J. Crew Cotton/Cashmere Sweater,
LL Bean Waxed Cotton Vest, Filson Original Briefcase, Allen Edmonds Grayson Loafer,
J. Crew Vintage Cord, Hamilton Jazzmaster Slim, Billy Reid Skinny Tie

I happened to be on campus last week to have lunch with my mother and check out some of the Alumni gear at the bookstore. I picked up a heather gray crewneck sweater and a navy wool fitted hat. both embroidered with my alma mater. The inspiration came when I was holding the sweater and checking out a plaid shirt similar to the one above. Heather gray is an understated color that is incredibly versatile and has a very vintage collegiate look to it. It's a great look for going to class, carousing around town, doing your holiday shopping, or just looking sharp.

Wish List: Harris Tweed Taransay Jacket

Harris Tweed Taransay Jacket, $400

There's no doubt that Harris Tweed is the king of all wool fabrics (I suppose you could make cashmere the queen, based upon the virtue of the king being rugged and awesome and the queen being nice and umm... soft, I digress). It's a perennial favorite here at The Natural Aristocrat and for many others around the world. It's also a notable luxury fabric that is "100% pure virgin wool, dyed, spun and finished in the Western Isles of Scotland. It is Hand-woven by crofters in their own homes on the islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra." With so many companies resorting to cheaper fabrics and textiles while chasing profit margins, Harris Tweed has never strayed from their roots sticking to hand-looming using the same techniques in the same location for more than a century. In fact, they are so meticulous about their tweed that there is a Harris Tweed Authority that regulates and inspects every piece of cloth to leave the mills to ensure it's up to their high marks.

Of course, with that sort of pedigree, you can't settle for second rate garment manufacturing, you have to have the best haberdashers and tailors to work with such a medium. Luckily, Harris Tweed has typically only been made into garments by respectable manufacturers who befit such an incredible fabric. The jacket above comes from a company named Harris Tweed Scotland, who has their own mill in Harris and produces five different tweeds to make their jackets. Like the fabric, the jackets are also made on site in Scotland using classic design and techniques, it's a 2-button darted twin vent with three sleeve buttons, all very indicative of tailoring from the United Kingdom. Also note how the second button hole is almost invisible, a sign of near perfect hand stitching.

A jacket like this is great with everything from gray flannel slacks, to cavalry twill khakis, to classic blue jeans. It can be work with nearly any manner of straight or bow tie since the neutral base and flecks of color play excellently with either similar or complementary colors. A tweed jacket is also the ideal base upon which to play with pattern, color and texture. As long as the jacket is well fitted, you definitely won't come off as a stuffy professor, instead you'll subconsciously impart an air of intellect and manliness. If you're new to the world of men's style and want to immediately take it up a notch this winter, or if you for some reason don't own one, pick up a tweed blazer (Harris obviously preferred, it will last you forever), and use it for everything from drinks at the pub to dinner to hunting to traveling.

Wish List: D.S. Dundee Winterwear

Like many of you style blog regulars, I've heard of brands like D.S. Dundee. Although, usually when I find out about these brands, either they only have one or two really good pieces that get showcased a lot or you happen upon a trove of incredible gear, some of the likes are incredibly fresh takes on common menswear garments. Hence why today's Wish List issue is not just one item but several, from one of East London's classic manufacturers. Also, depending on who you are, their gear is quite spendy. For me, it's very much so, which makes it perfect for my wish list.

Ettrick Shooting Jacket, $678

This is the first piece I saw from them that made me do a double take. It's a shooting jacket made out of tweed (of course) in a great plaid pattern with a belted waist and patch pockets. When is the last time you saw a jacket that looked like this? The great thing about a jacket like this is you can very easily dress it up or down depending on what you're doing in it. The only way this could have been better is if they had cut the collar so you could wear it as a blazer (because I'm dandy like that). Also, check out the attention to detail that goes into this jacket. The stitching for the buttonhole is incredibly tidy, and the leather work on the button is flawless. Keeping in line with things are age well, this jacket looks like it would last you until it's time to hand it down to your children's children. Learning to notice things like this go a long way in determining whether or not a garment is worth it's salt (and it's price).

Kirkhill Cardigan, $238

This cardigan is the type of sweater that you should be able to find in all thrift stores. Unfortunately, my normative views never translate to reality, so companies like D.S. Dundee then therefore compensate by making it so. It's made out of some sort of super thick futuristic material that sheds beer stains and advances from questionable bargoers. Or so I wish, but it is made out of wool, which is arguably the best clothing material of all time. The nice contrast creates a mid-century American schoolboy look, which is balanced by the wool and elbow patches, in typical across the pond style. It's also a great choice because green doesn't get enough play in your average wardrobe.

Bannerman Derby Leather/Canvas Boot, $599

And finally, look at these friggin' boots! A lot of people around this time of year ask if you can wear boots with a suit, the answer to that question is boots like these. Upon first glance, these seem like the type of boots you might have seen British soldiers wearing during the early 20th century. The mixing of canvas and leather has a very utilitarian functionality, yet stays stylish with subtle patterning and details like the double leather straps, polished cap toe, and leather sole. The derby (also known as blucher) lacing structure is more casual than a balmoral boot, but keeps a sleek silhouette that makes it give the appearance of a dress shoe under trousers. Consider it, like the other items a great mix between military-like utility with traditional English refinement and style.

I haven't seen these particular D.S. Dundee items featured anywhere else yet, so I thought I would bring them to your attention if you haven't had a chance to check out the website for yourself yet. You should definitely do so now however, as you have now seen the type of goods they produce. P.S. They also run a great blog.

Wish List: Barbour Boots

You might have seen these before, that is, if you're one of those guys who knows about the super exclusive menswear collaborations as soon as they debut. I just found these today while randomly checking out High Snobiety. I usually can't stand their site, it's usually just an endless supply of bland stuff that only child size people can fit into and is only sold at an obscure store in an alley in Tokyo  or New York that you can't even see unless you have the proper amount of trendy gear on.  It's like Harry Potter for fashionistas.

However, occasionally they find something I would actually want to buy. In this case, it's something that's actually making me geek out. I hope I'm not becoming one of them. However, either way, they introduced me to the Barbour x Rockport (see what I did there with the "x"? that's how the trendy say collaboration) boots, and boy are they ridiculously freaking spectacularly awesomely incredible (aka scrumtrulescent). Although I must say I'm surprised they chose Rockport of all shoemakers, I would like to know how that came to be.

Chukka Boot, $180

Plain Toe, $200

Cap Toe, $220

The odd thing about these boots is if they were produced by anyone other than Barbour, I wouldn't have cared, but since they have Barbour's incredibly rugged and long lasting waxed cotton and treated leather, they've just become pair of boots that can comfortably sit on a rocky perch next to Maine's famous hunting iteration.  At around $200 they're affordable for the types of guys who spend $450 on Alden loafers, but they're also a good price for guys like me who actually have to save up to purchase these things or aren't living beyond their means. And I must say, I think I'll probably do so, even if I have to wait until I can find them on sale. Can you just imagine how awesome these are going to be when they have been beat on for years and the cotton matches your jacket? Boots like these are the definition of things we ought to be buying. That is, things that age not wear. It gets older and it shows, but it's integrity and structure do not wither. Quality matters.